Jewish history in Frankfurt

Frankfurt has a Jewish history dating back to at least the 12th century and there is some excellent information on the web to guide you to key cultural sites within Frankfurt, http://en.juedisches-frankfurt.de/
 
There are two museums in Frankfurt city centre dedicated to Jewish heritage in the city, both offering extensive information in English as well as German. The museum of the Jewish Ghetto, Batonnstrasse 47, displays the original foundation stones of the Frankfurt ghetto, first built in 1462. The Jewish Museum Frankfurt, Bertha-Pappenheim-Platz 1, has exhibits detailing Jewish life in Frankfurt from the 1800’s onwards.
In addition to these two central museums, is the Bildungsstätte Anne Frank, a small exhibit dedicated to Anne Frank, whose family lived in Frankfurt until they moved to Amsterdam to avoid the persecution of the National Socialist regime. This museum is easily accessible by taking the U-bahn (1,2,3 or 8) to Dornbusch. During my last visit they were exhibiting the original diary of Anne Frank.

An exhibit from the Bildungsstätte - Anne Frank in Frankfurt

An exhibit from the Bildungsstätte - Anne Frank in Frankfurt

As well as the information listed on web about Frankfurt Jewish culture there are some additional places to visit which have a Jewish connection. Up near the old opera house is the Rothschildpark, situated on land where the Rothschild's once lived. A placard by the park entrance, on Bockenheimer Landstraße, offers information and photos about the family home that once stood there.

Not far from Konstablerwache is a remnant of the old city wall, the Staufenmauer, dating back to the 12th century. It's also the north entrance to what used to be the Jewish ghetto, first constructed in 1462 and, up until 1815, Jewish residents were confined to living there. Today nothing exists of the old ghetto but walk through the old north entrance and head south towards the Jewish ghetto museum (Museum Judengasse) and you will be treading the path of where the ghetto used to stand.

Staufenmauer, the 12th century city wall and the entrance to the Jewish ghetto.

Staufenmauer, the 12th century city wall and the entrance to the Jewish ghetto.

As you reach the Jewish ghetto museum, on the south east corner of Kurt-Schumacher-Straße and Battonstraße, look out for some brass plates laid into the ground with house names on them, e.g. Goldenes Schaf. The brass plates outline where some of the ghetto houses previously stood and are part of the museum exhibit. The entrance to the Jewish ghetto museum is 30 metres along Battonstraße and it is the ideal place to visit for more information about life in the ghetto.
Next door to the museum, is the old Jewish cemetery, in use from the 1200's through to the 1800's. Around the cemetery walls are listed almost 12,000 names, the names of the Jewish Frankfurt citizens murdered during the holocaust. Follow the wall to the south side and into the Neue Borne Platz, previously the old Jewish market place, today it is a permanent place of remembrance. If you wish to enter the cemetery a key can beborrowed from the museum, but only on production of a valid ID card.

A name from the Jewish cemetery wall memorial.

A name Block from the Jewish cemetery wall memorial.

This link also gives details of the other two Jewish cemeteries in Frankfurt, which are both accessible via a short ride on the U-bahn.    

In the heart of the old town, on Römerberg stands the Alte Nikolaikirche. Step inside and notice the colourful stained glass windows in the south wall and one to the west. These windows formerly belonged to Carl von Weinberg. Born into a Jewish family, in the 1880's he converted to the evangelical faith however, because of his Jewish beginnings, the National Socialist regime reclassified Carl von Weinberg and forced him to sell his estate. The window's creator,  Lena von Schauroth, took the windows for save keeping and in 1951 permission was given for the windows to be installed in the Alte Nikolaikirche. Another relic from the von Weinberg estate is the Florentine fountain, an original 16th century renaissance sculpture which can be found in the Wallanlage park, next to the Nebbiensches Gartenhaus.

The Wollheim memorial in the Goethe University grounds, Frankfurt.

The Wollheim memorial in the Goethe University grounds, Frankfurt.

The Goethe University grounds in the Westend, house the Wollheim memorial, dedicated to slave labourers forced to work at IG Farben during the second world war. The main university building is the former IG Farben headquarters. The public are free to walk around the university grounds which connect up with the Grüneburgpark, and the Botanical Gardens.

Heidelberg audio tour - cafes and other recommendations!

Heidelberg audio tour - cafes and other recommendations!

What makes Heidelberg so unique? Why does it feel so different to other German towns? Walking along the narrow streets you will hear how French troops burned Heidelberg to the ground and then about its re-birth as a baroque city, "beautiful and straight". The baroque features of the buildings then spring to life all around, as do the hidden remnants of the former medieval Heidelberg. Discover why there are so many madonnas in Heidelberg often perched above looking down upon the busy shoppers below and what the bronze monkey represents.

Student life features strongly in Germanys oldest university city:

- a student union canteen in an old medieval stable, - a dedicated student prison, - a new university building built around an old medieval witches tower, - a library in the architectural wilhelmian style, - famous students, both good and bad.

Heidelberg didn't escape the effects of World War Two either. Discover the book burning memorial and and stumble stones and the site of the old jewish synagogue, and who actually blew up the old bridge. Discover the influence the Americans have on this city too, both before and during the war.
Download the Voicemap tour and start discovering and exploring!

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Many of Frankfurt's museums are free on the last Saturday of the month

SaTOURday - free entry

On the last Saturday of every month the museums of Frankfurt open their doors and offer free entrance, this event is known as SaTOURday. There are a few museums who exempt themselves from SaTOURday as follows:

  • In August and December there is no SaTOURday at any museum

  • The following museums do not participate in SaTOURday and still charge an entrance fee, but check the Museumsufer website in case additional museums are added to the list:

    • The Film Museum (Deutschen Filmmuseum)

    • EXPERIMINTA Science Centre

    • Goethe House Museum (Goethe-Haus)

    • Communication Museum (Museum für Kommunikation)

    • Senckenberg Natural Science Museum (Naturmuseum Senckenberg)

    • The Palm Garden (Palmengarten)

    • The Städel (although not on the Museumsufer exemption list, a reader recently reported that he had to pay despite it being SaTOURday)

A huge variety of museums within walking distance

During the winter months the museums are great places to go and get away from the cold outdoors and there are 34 museums to choose from. Information about the museums can be found, in English, on the Museums Embankment website.

The variety of museums is astounding; modern art, classic art, photography, film, natural history and many of them are within walking distance of each other along the Museumsufer on the south bank of the River Main (see image below and this map link will take you to the original map)

The curators have done an incredible job of raising the profile of Frankfurt's museums and, as a result, World class exhibitions regularly visit the city and for example the Schirn Art Hall has worked in conjunction with the Tate, London and the Centre Pompidou. Many of the museums have a cafe, accessible without paying an entrance fee, that offer freshly made lunch options, drinks and cakes too.

Map of the Museums located centrally in frankfurt

Value for money cards

If you live in Frankfurt and like to visit the museums frequently then the Museums Embankment card is great value for money and, once bought, offers free entrance to over 34 museums and all exhibitions. Just ask for a museums card at the reception of any museum when you visit. You'll be issued with a temporary paper pass which is usable until your official pass is sent in the post.

  • Adult card - 89€ annually (2023)

  • A family of two adults and two children 150€ annually

  • Students (between 6 and 18) 45€ annually

Value for tourists and visitors

If you are simply visiting Frankfurt then an alternative option is the MuseumsuferUfer ticket which offers free entrance to 39 museums and exhibitions for two full days. It costs just 21€ (2023) or for a family of two adults and two children, a ticket costs just 32€. Again, just ask at the reception when you visit the first museum and they will issue the ticket. If the museums are closed on one of the days you are visiting (museums are shut on Mondays) then the ticket is valid for the following day.

The Städel museum, opposite the Holbeinsteg (bridge) on the Museumsufer

The Städel museum, opposite the Holbeinsteg (bridge) on the Museumsufer

Around Lokalbahnhof

Lokalbahnhof is associated with being a bus (numbers 30 & 36), tram (numbers 15, 16 & 18) and S-Bahn stop. Many alight here on their way to a night out in Alt Sachsenhausen or for a meet-up with friends in the Brückenviertal. Rarely does anyone talk of Lokalbahnhof as a destination in it’s own right. But that’s about to change, so read on…

As you step out of the S-Bahn the immediate attraction is the Alte Liebe bar. Long established in Sachsenhausen, Alte Liebe relocated to the corner of Darmstädter Landstraße and Mühlbruchstraße approximately four years ago. With the vibe of a traditional pub, regualr revues and even musical bingo nights, the Alte Liebe attracts a loyal following.

Directly opposite Alte Liebe, across the busy Darmstädter Landstraße and on the corner of Hedderichstraße is Eiscafe L’Incontro. A long standing, family run, Italian gelato cafe. If you get the chance, try the Joghurt-Birne ice-cream. It’s delicious, and you can’t find it anywhere else in Frankfurt!

L’Incontro is at one end of a row of shops on Darmstädter Landstraße. Over the past two years, new retailers have taken up vacant space and there is now a mix of independent stores which serve the local community. Møbel (no. 50) has some great present ideas and is worth a browse. Blumenlokal (no. 44) is the “go-to” flower shop in the area and most recently Barrio cafe (no. 42) has opened up and has already attained a reputation for its breakfasts and freshly prepared lunch menus.

Another well established and popular bar and restaurant is Lokalbahnhof, Darmstädter Landstraße 14. Cosy in the winter and with a small outdoor garden open in the summer, Lokalbahnhof offers large plates of hearty food and, a not too shabby, variety of vegan and vegetarian options too.

A little further up and on the other side of Darmstädter Landstraße at number three, is Kaliko. Small and quaint, with a great menu that has weekly updates, Kaliko is a rarity among restaurants in that it is open on a Monday but be aware it is closed to on a Saturday!

Leaving Darmstädter Landstraße and walking along Dreieichstraße will lead you to number 54 and the Harmonie Art House Cinema. This cinema specialises in showing films in the original language and has a very nice bar area to and a selection of small snacks.

Directly opposite the Harmonie cinema is a shopping complex, the Meichsner & Dennerlein bookstore has a lovely selection of postcards and greetings cards. Meanwhile outside the Rewe supermarket exit is a book exchange. It’s a tall glass cabinet where books are donated and anyone can help themselves.

If flat whites and other speciality coffee brews are your thing, then you only have to walk up Dreichstrase a little further and turn right into Große Rittergasse to find Café Under Pressure, Große Rittergasse 20.

By the end of an afternoon browsing and getting to know Lokalbahnhof a little better, a glass of wine might be in order. Urbans & anders, Dreieichstraße 20, stands on the corner where Große Rittergasse leads into the night life of Alt Sachsenhausen. It’s a friendly wine bar with some excellent German wines among its list of wines by the glass and bottle.

I hope you enjoy getting to know this little area of Frankfurt. If there is something I have missed out, add a comment and I shall investigate!

A walk (or cycle) from Fechenheim to Rumpenheim

Fresh air and feeling at one with nature away from the noise and bustle of city life. This stretch of the River Main is particularly beautiful with weeping willows gracing the river banks and, at arrival in Rumpenheim, a small “Schloss” in the heart of this quiet town.

Getting there

Simply take the number 11 tram (direction - Schießhüttenstraße) and alight at Arthur-von-Weinberg-Steg, also listed as Fechenheim Post on google maps, where the pedestrian bridge takes you over to the other side of the river and where the walk begins.

This area is away from any roads, the only noise pollution is that of the birds. Some people like to take a picnic and find a sunny spot along the river bank to enjoy the peace and quiet. The route mapped out is simple, just follow the river bank to Rumpenheim.

For an interactive map use this link: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/edit?mid=1zIaIRHLtRwx7z_kCd7LznQSlXpDcyfwD&usp=sharing

For an interactive map use this link: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/edit?mid=1zIaIRHLtRwx7z_kCd7LznQSlXpDcyfwD&usp=sharing

Rumpenheim

Rumpenheim is a quiet place. The highlight is the old Schloss, was founded in 1678 as a manor house and in the late 1700 extended to become the building recognised today. The Schloss is divided up into private apartments, but it’s park is a public area. Rumpenheim is home to many artists, and one weekend a year artists open their doors for the Rumpenheimer-Kunsttage, taking place on the 18th & 19th September 2021. Check the link for more information and possible changes due to CoVid restrictions.

Route to the Rumpenheimer und Bürgeler Kiesgrube

Taking the small streets out Rumpenheim will lead you past riding stables and towards the Rumpenheimer and Bürgeler Kiesgrube, a nature conservation area. It’s also home to a pond that is open to the public for bathing.

Heading back to Frankfurt

From here it’s an easy stroll back to the river bank and the Arthur-von-Weinberg-Steg o catch the number 11 back into Frankfurt city centre. If you are on your bike, head back to the river bank and follow the river, on the southside, for a beautiful ride back towards Frankfurt (the northside of the Main is very industrial and not worth following).

How to download and use Voicemap for your Walk-Frankfurt audio tours

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How to...

download and use Voicemap

In conjunction with the Walk-Frankfurt audio guided tours, here is a how-to guide on downloading and using the voicemap app.

How does VoiceMap work?
VoiceMap uses your phone’s GPS to play commentary automatically. Once you have the Voicemap app and have downloaded an audio tour, plug in your earphones, press start , and put your phone away. A voice will tell you where to go, and the next part of the story will only play once you move on. You can walk at your own pace, and stop for pictures along the way. Just listen out for directions, and if you can’t remember where to go, take a look at the map on your screen.

 How do I install the app?
You can download the app for Android devices in the Google Play Store, and iPhone in the App Store. Just search “VoiceMap” and look out for the red headphones icon. Once it’s installed, sign up.

 Why do I have to sign up?
Once you download a VoiceMap tour, it’s yours forever. You need to have an account so that you can access your tours. 

Do I have to be near a WiFi network?
You can use WiFi or data to download the app and the tour. Wait for all the files to download, and then you can disconnect and turn off your mobile data. All the audio files and maps will work offline. Make sure you don’t put your phone on airplane mode. That turns your GPS off, so nothing will play.

 How much does the app cost?
The app is free to download. Frankfurt tours are individually priced, starting at $4.99.

 How do I play the audio tracks?
Don’t worry about it! VoiceMap will take care of all that. You don’t need to manually play, pause or skip to the next track. The app does all of that for you.

How do I start?
Once the tour has finished downloading, just press start and the tour will begin right away. If nothing is playing:
- check you are on the right tour,
- check you are close enough to the start point. Voicemap tells you how many meters to the start point and starts automatically once you arrive.

What's my password?
It’s the password you entered when you signed up to the Voicemap App. If you can’t remember, you can reset it at the website (voicemap.me) or in the app.

 Can I listen to a route I’ve downloaded more than once? Do routes expire?
Once you download a tour, it’s yours to keep. You can delete it from your phone, and still
re-download it at any time in the future.

 Nothing is playing! What do I do?
Check the following:

1. Is your GPS turned on? VoiceMap needs GPS to be enabled to play audio.
2. Is your phone on airplane mode? If yes, turn it off. Airplane mode disables your GPS.
3. Have you allowed VoiceMap to access your location? If not, go to your location settings and allow the app to use your location.
4. Did you allow all the tracks to download completely?
5. Is your volume turned up, and are your earphones working properly?

 Can I stop a tour?
You can stop whenever you like. The tour will resume automatically when you reach the next point of interest. Just make sure you don’t close the app, or you’ll have to start from the beginning. Remember that when you start walking again, it’ll carry on automatically, so put your earphones in before you get going.

Are there other tours?
As well as the Walk-Frankfurt walking tours, VoiceMap offers tours in over 45 cities, each one unique and created by passionate locals. You can browse the city list to see what’s available.

Cafes and other treats, during the Frankfurt Old Town voicemap audio tour

Updated 04.07.2022

The suggestions below follow the same route as the tour, plus a few extra hints and tips. If you spot a change, perhaps a new cafe you tried and liked, please, do leave a comment.

Listings

Key to listings: D - dining, C - cafe/coffee, Vg - vegan, TG - to go, W - wine
Along the tour route:

C Einsteins - (Römerberg 32) A bit like Starbucks, but it’s German, and very conveniently placed on the old town square. It keeps longer hours than most cafes in the area from 8am - 9pm.

C Kaffeehaus Goldene Waage (Markt 5) This is in the beautiful renaissance house, just opposite the cathedral. Cake and coffee are good, service slow (not going to lie to you) but this is all about seeing the beautiful renovations within. The cafe is also attached to the Friedrich-Stoltze Museum, free entry, which you will find when visiting the bathrooms!

D C Vg Metropol Kaffeeaus am Dom (Weckmarkt 13-15) I have an affection for this place. Home cooked food, great cakes and a garden that’s an absolute sun-trap out back! (Vegetarian and vegan goods too)

D Wirthaus am Hühnermarkt (Markt 16- 18, Hühnermarkt) In the heart of the New Old Town, the Wirthaus has a menu of traditional Frankfurt food and the quality is high. The pricing is a little higher too, but the setting is lovely and worth it.

C Hoppenworth & Ploch Altstadt (Markt 22, on the Hühnermarkt) Local coffee roaster. For those who like a flat white, this is the place to head to in the Old Town. Of course they have other drinks too!

W Balthasar Ress (Markt 13a, Hühnermarkt) Were you paying attention on the tour? Balthasar’s Weinbar is in the baroque, Grüne Linden, house on the Chicken Market! Balthasar’s produces it’s own wine close to Frankfurt in the Rheingau region. VDP quality wines that are worth trying. For a quick crib sheet on German wine terms, check out this link!

TG Metzgerei Dey - (Markt 13, Hühnermarkt) want to snack like locals do, whilst on the go? Grab a sausage from Dey’s. A family run delicatessen, here in Frankfurt since 1930.

D Badias Shirn Cafe Bar (Schirn Kunsthalle, btw Coronation Way and Bendergasse) Situated above the Coronation Way, Badias has a great selection of freshly prepared salads and dishes with a Mediterranean flair. Although not strictly gluten-free, it is possible to work around the menu and avoid gluten ingredients.

W C Wineschirn (Römerberg 8, directly opposite the U-bahn escalators, exit Römer) ) Another one of my favourites, Weinschirn has a lovely selection of German wines and a few from other lands too. Noted also for the delicious Flammkuchen and small plates of ham and cheese if you’re feeling peckish!)

C ConduitCouture (Fahrtor 1, by Haus Wertheim) On the way to the Iron bridge, queue up here and grab a fine piece of cake or a home made ice-cream. This patisserie makes all the classics, including the famous Frankfurter Kranz, a vanilla sponge with butter cream, jam and a nutty croquant. You can also buy packs of Bethmannchen here - the traditional Frankfurt, baked marzipan treats.

Schirn Art Gallery (Römerberg) modern art gallery offering alternating exhibitions. Check the website for details)

Kaisersaal (entrance on Limpurgergasse. Daily 10am-1pm and 2pm-5pm) The Kaisersaal contains 19th century portraits of all the Holy Roman Emperors. As you walked along Limpurgergasse, after seeing the eavedropping man and cat, you might have noticed a sign on the side wall of the town hall. It’s the entrance point to the Kaisersaal. When open, walk through the gates, turn right to see an automat machine to purchase entrance tickets (2€). Once done, walk up the the ornate stairwell to gain entrance.

Other recommendations

Not on the tour, but very close by
Braubachstrasse
has quite a few cafes, and a couple of antique stores, and is worth exploring, a few highlights are below:
Key to listings: D - dining, C - cafe/coffee, Vg - vegan, TG - to go, W - wine

Handwerkkunst Frankfurt (Braubachstrasse 39 ) If you are looking for traditional German wooden decorations and souvenirs, this shop is close to the Römerberg.

C Iimori (Braubachstrasse 20) The best patisserie in Frankfurt for French bakery specialities and Japanese specialities too.

Fotographie Forum Frankfurt (Braubachstrasse 30-32) A small gallery for photography enthusiasts.

C D Margerete (Braubachstrasse 18) Good for lunch and afternoon coffee and cake. Sit out front and watch the world go by. IMO not so great for dinner.

C Zart & Bitter (Braubachstrasse 14) One for the chocolics! A shop and cafe, or should I say “Salon” too.

MMK (Domstrasse 10) Museum of Modern Art. On the corner of Braubachstr. and Domstr. When they say modern art, they mean it.

Ice-cream
There are lots of ice-cream vendors around the old town but one stands out as better quality than the rest:

C Condit Couture (Fahrtor 1) A lovely konditorei that also sells ice-cream in the summer months.

Kleinmarkthalle

Kleinmarkthalle (Hasengasse 5 -7) The indoor market has take out, wine, coffee and lots more. It’s a Frankfurt institution and lots of locals hang out at Rollanderhof Wein on the 1st floor. It ‘s a very short walk from the old town. There is a second entrance from Ziegelgasse.